Ann Arbor Eats – Revisiting Vellum
A little over a year ago, I wrote a gushing post about the newly-opened Vellum where I raved about how they were bringing a much-needed level of elegance and artistry to the local restaurant scene. Secretly, however, I had some concerns over its viability as it may be too far “out there” for these damn Midwest sensibilties. Outside of Chicago, the Midwest is still a couple years behind the coasts in just about any trend – food, fashion, music. Sure there quite a few adventurous, hip types here but I don’t know if there are enough of them.
More disconcerting are tales of inconsistency coming from friends who went there. One friend sent me a text saying that the appetizer she ordered was terrible. Yet one week later (she loves the drinks there) she sent a text saying a dish that was one of the best they’ve had in years. Another friend found inconsistency in the course of one night – some things described as absolutely sublime, while others completely inedible.
So what’s the real Vellum? I went there with the Pieholes recently…
Hamachi with pureed apple, jalapeno, and pickled pineapple
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corn tart
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Pork belly skewer with tzatziki
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Vellum burger with egg and bacon jam, mushroom sauce, and pickled jicama
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Seared tuna salad
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Braised lamb shank with confit heirloom carrots
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Cherry tart with balaton cherries and pistachio ice cream
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Madeleine & Tea – Earl Grey foam, crushed madeleines, and honey jellies
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What I Drank
Although my dinner companions were my kids, it didn’t stop me from ordering a bottle of Zantho Zweigelt. For all of you ready to call family services – relax, there’s a wonderful law here that lets diners take home any unfinished bottles of wine. I’m not sure how I landed on this wine, but it was nice. It’s an easy-drinking Austrian red that had aromas of cranberries and cherries with nice pepper and earth on the back side. It was a good tweener – something between a pinot noir and a Rhone.
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The Verdict
So which is the true Vellum? Is it the restaurant that I went to that had lofty goals that they mostly achieved? Or is it the one with inconsistent execution with some complete bombs on the menu?
The corn tart fell a little flat, but everything else was outstanding. The hamachi was perfectly balanced and the belly skewer was as decadent as it sounded. The Vellum burger completely fit their MO – recognizable menu item prepared in a completely unexpected way. The jicama pickle was a great add as well as the “egg” which came in the form of a yolk spread. It was terrific and I plan on going back just for that. The lamb shank was also unexpected in its expectedness (if that’s a word). There weren’t any twists or novel interpretations like the burger – just a straight-up braised shank with beautifully prepared carrots. It was perfect.
I know that only two visits a year apart don’t make a great sample size. There’s always a possibility that I will eventually encounter one of those wildly inconsistent moments. Maybe. So how about you send along some cash donations and I’ll go there weekly? Cool?
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5 comments on “Ann Arbor Eats – Revisiting Vellum”
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wine century
Doppel Member, Baby!
I’ve only been there for happy hour a couple times… I might have to try the Vellum burger next time!
I haven’t been to their HH yet, but The Winegetter loves it..
I can’t believe how long it takes them to pour a glass of wine. I was there at the bar recently, ordered a simple glass of Albarino, and it was like I’d ordered the most complicated item on the cocktail menu. I almost walked out as I watched them saunter around the bar, not particularly busy, in no hurry whatsoever to get my drink. I think they’re a little too cool for their britches but I’ve never had the food.
That’s too bad as bar service has always been good for me. As for too cool, can see that. Unfortunately that’s a trend in a lot of places.
LOL – cash donations.
Sounds like Vellum has still got you captivated…twice yearly at least!