Chicago Eats: Dove’s Luncheonette
On top of major cases of laziness and a jam-packed schedule, I’m now having the most annoying laptop issue ever – the “p” key doesn’t work. So now I had to email this post to myself, edit it on my phone, and send it back. So please give me a pass if you see some odd words.
Heh heh, before I edited that last sentence, it said to “please give me a ass”….
When we first moved to Ann Arbor from Chicago we would go back just about every month. But that was ten years ago when we didn’t have 8,483,509 activities every weekend that the only feasible way of staying on top of things was to clone ourselves and own a fleet of minivans. Or something like that. Now I’m lucky to get there twice a year.
And every time I go back, I’m always amazed at the amount of changes since our previous visit. I know it’s unfair to expect it to stay the same but, damn, it was already tough to pick a restaurant because of all the options. Add dozens of new restaurants and it’s even harder.
But that’s not the worst part. No, the worst part is when all those changes led to me – a proud Chicagoan who has boasted knowing the city inside and out – getting lost. LOST. That’s what happened when my cousin, El Douchebag, suggested we go to Dove’s Luncheonette.
It’s at a major intersection in Wicker Park, a few blocks away from a loft we own and now rent out. I used to be able to go to that area, eat an amazing meal and/or drink my liver into submission and still be able to stumble my way home with no problem. Now I didn’t even recognize it.
I say all this because that temporary disorientation may have led to my not having the best experience there.
Dove’s is a retro-ish diner serving “Southern-inspired Mexican cuisine.” It’s part of Paul Kahan’s empire, the great Chicago restaurateur behind Blackbird, Nico Osteria, Avec, and Publican. All of his restaurants deliver solid – often spectacular – food that is true to each of the individual concepts. Dove’s was nominated by Bon Appetit
as one of the Best New Restaurants of 2015 andChicago Magazine
called it a “near perfect brunch exerience.” I’ve never had less than an awesome meal at a Kahan restaurant.
They had some iced coffees on tap which I really should’ve tried, but I’ve been trying to shake my hipster tendencies.
Actually, I’m just not a fan of iced coffee but I couldn’t pass up a smarmy comment about hipsters. Which I guess is pretty hipster of me. Dang it.
I ordered the Tamal de Cochinillo
sweet corn tamal filled with chorizo topped with andouille gumbo, gulf shrimp, crispy oickled okra, queso cotija, parsley
… and D got the Burnt Ends Hash
Crispy potatoes, brisket burnt ends, poblanos, aioli, queso fresco, fried eggs, Texas toast
I absolutely love tamales and gumbo might be on my short-list for a last meal. Unfortunately, there was a little too much going on with this dish. It was a confusing mix of very strong flavors that canceled each other out. Except the salt which, unfortunately, came singing through. D’s burnt end hash was dynamite, though.
Again, maybe it was because my mind was still addled by not knowing exactly where I was. The small bite of burnt end hash and Kahan’s reputation are enough to make me want to give it another try.
Assuming I can find it.